Congee

I hate to compare congee (or jook, as it’s also known) to mere porridge, gruel, or Cream of Wheat, as all of these things have such low bowl appeal to the Western palate. Trust me: this thick and creamy seasoned rice soup fills the soul. It’s like the chicken soup with matzoh balls of the Far East—humble ingredients coming together into pure cold weather comfort. This soup, eaten any time (but particularly for breakfast) is filling and savory. Each bowl is a collaboration between cook and diner; I like mine seasoned with a jolting dose of white pepper, soy sauce, Salt- Preserved Eggs with Star Anise, and Chile–Black Bean Oil. Why do I include it in a pickle book? Because congee is an outstanding blank canvas for chopped Asian pickles of any kind—as well as your refrigerator’s holdings of chopped leftover chicken, fish, tofu, or beef, cooked vegetables, cilantro, hard-boiled egg, frozen peas and corn, fried garlic, and on and on. If you love Asian comfort dishes like noodle soup and fried rice, I urge you to try the supernatural do-it-all delicious simplicity of congee.

Makes about 3 quarts

TIME: ABOUT 2½ HOURS

1 cup jasmine rice

4 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade

8 cups water

3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground white pepper, plus more to taste

3 tablespoons soy sauce, plus more to taste

Any other ingredients you want to use (see headnote):

Salt-Preserved Eggs with Star Anise, XO Sauce, Chile Sauce, or Chile–Black Bean Oil (optional)

Rinse the rice in a strainer until the water runs clear. Add it, along with the broth and the water, to a large stockpot set over high heat. Boil for about 15 minutes, covered, stirring frequently to keep the rice from sticking to the bottom. Add the ginger, keep it covered, and reduce the heat to a low boil, stirring from time to time and scraping the bottom of the pot. As the congee thickens, keep reducing the heat to keep it from adhering to the pot. After about 2 hours, the rice will really begin to dissolve into the liquid. Stir it vigorously or use a whisk to help break it down. Its consistency should be quite velvety and creamy, with no visible grains of rice remaining. Once the consistency is correct, add the 1 teaspoon of pepper and the 3 tablespoons of soy sauce, along with any other ingredients you care to use. Stir to combine, then leave over low heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, to allow the ingredients to heat through.

Ladle into serving bowls, then top with additional white pepper and soy sauce to taste, and/or XO sauce, chile sauce, or chile– black bean oil.

hancheng

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