Preserved Steamed Lemons

2 min read

Our first thought about preserved lemon is that it’s a Moroccan flavor, but it is prevalent in Chinese cooking as well. I still have memories of a Chinese-style sun-dried preserved lemon with prune I once bought at a flea market in Hawaii and have yet to successfully replicate. This recipe, however, I have perfected with the help of the owner of the Duc Loi Supermarket in San Francisco’s Mission District. I saw her putting her giant jars up to preserve near the window, and when I asked, she told me to steam the lemons, then dry them, then preserve them—an oft-used technique for long-term preservation. The lemons will turn murky gray; don’t worry—this is part of the process. Shave, slice, or mince just the lemon rind (discard the pulp) to add a lemony but earthen, puckery flavor to congee, fish, or stews, or boil a whole lemon into a soup for a unique flavor.

Makes 3 or 4 preserved lemons TIME: AT LEAST 6 MONTHS 3 or 4 good-sized lemons with thick skin (not Meyer lemons)

1 cup kosher salt

4½ cups water

Scrub the lemons well under running water, then steam them for 10 minutes in a steaming basket set over boiling water. If you don’t have a steaming basket, improvise with a colander or a sieve set over a large cooking pot and covered to keep the steam in.

Preheat the oven to 200°F.

Remove the lemons from the steamer with tongs or a large spoon, let cool enough to handle, then dry well with clean kitchen towels. Place the lemons directly on your clean oven rack, or on a wire rack placed over a baking sheet. Prop the oven door open slightly with the handle of a wooden spoon, and let the lemons dry for 4 hours. Turn off the oven heat and let the lemons sit in the oven (or another dry place, if the oven is needed) for 8 hours or overnight. The lemons will begin to collapse a bit; this is desirable. Next morning, pack the lemons into the bottom of a clear 3-quart or larger jar or plastic container. In a separate pitcher, combine the salt and the water and pour it over the lemons. If the lemons try to float, fill a plastic bag with water, knot the top, and use it to submerge them. Put the jar near a window where the lemons will get frequent and indirect sunlight and let them sit for 6 months. As they age, they will become darker in color and will cave in on themselves even more.

Whole lemons can be stored at room temperature, but a cut fruit should be refrigerated submerged in brine. These lemons will keep for several years, continuing to get darker and more intensely flavored.