The Wok
4 min readThe Chinese cooking utensil known as the wok derives its name from theCantonese for ‘pot’ or ‘pan’; the correct transliteration should be guo. But wok it is, and wok it shall remain – as with the Chinese ‘cleaver’. I will show you several more misinterpretations throughout the book, but in most cases I will just have to give up the struggle and use the conventional and the customary names in order not to confuse the issue!
The wok was designed with a rounded bottom to fit snugly over a traditional Chinese brazier or stove, which burns wood, charcoal or coke. It conducts and retains heat evenly, and because of the wok’s shape, the food always returns to the centre where the heat is most intense. Of course the wok is far more versatile than just a frying-pan: it is also used for deep-frying, braising, steaming, boiling, and even smoking – in other words, the whole spectrum of Chinese cooking methods can be executed in one single utensil.
Despite the ever-increasing popularity of Chinese cooking all over the world, the average non-Chinese still cannot quite come to terms with the use of the wok, and most people just seem not to be able to grasp the few fundamentals that make this utensil stand apart from all other kitchen equipment in the West. I think the explanation for this is quite simple: since the wok was originally designed to be used over a primitive stove, its rounded bottom is not really suitable for a modern Western cooker, particularly if you cook only by electricity.
Basically, there are only two different types of wok on the market. First, there is the wok with two handles at opposite sides, usually sold as a set with the adaptor ring, lid, ladle, spatula, steamer rack and other accessories. Then, for less than a third of the price, you can buy a wok with a single handle like that of a frying-pan.
Let us take a look at the double-handled wok first. It is usually made of lightweight carbonized steel, and the diameter ranges from 28cm (11″) to 32cm (12½”) Some makes have a slightly flattened bottom specially designed for electric cookers, but they can also be used on all other cookers; while the traditional rounded bottom wok needs an adaptor ring or hob stand, unless you have a gas cooker with burners that will cradle the rounded bottom. The double-handled wok is ideal for deep-frying, braising, boiling and steaming, but is not really suitable for quick stir-frying as you need a strong wrist to lift and shake it about, and also the handles get very hot even if they are insulated with plastic or wood.
The single-handled wok is much preferred by the professionals. It may appear to be unsteady and slightly tipped to one side, but in fact it is quite safe and much easier to handle. There is never any real danger of the whole wok tipping over as the sheer weight of the wok and of the ingredients inside help to balance it. Again, a slightly flattened version is available for electric cookers.
Woks made from stainless steel, aluminium, copper, Teflon, porcelainized enamel, with coloured exterior and so on are specifically designed and manufactured for the Western home kitchen. However, not only do they always cost a great deal more than the traditional iron or steel wok, but they are also far less efficient for the task they are supposed to perform.
In order to produce a whole range of dishes of restaurant standard, the ideal wok would be a single-handled one made of medium-weight carbonized steel, with a diameter of 33cm (13″), and not less than 10cm (4″) deep. The depth of the wok is quite important: the extra inch or so on its vertical wall will make your cooking that much easier and more successful, particularly for stir-frying.
A double-handled wok made of lightweight carbonized steel would be useful as your second wok, to be used for braising, deep-frying, boiling and steaming, etc. But not many cookers are big enough to accommodate two woks at the same time, so you might find an electric wok (extremely expensive) very useful as it frees your cooker for other use.
How to season and clean a wok A new iron or steel wok is coated either with machine oil or a film of wax to keep it from rusting. Before use, this coating must be removed and then a new coat of seasoning applied to the surface. This ‘seasoning’ must be maintained throughout the life of the wok to keep it from rusting, and to prevent food sticking to the bottom.
The best way to remove the oil or wax coating of a new wok is by burning: heat the wok over a hot stove until almost the entire surface is black, let it cool, then clean it in warm, soapy water with a stiff brush and rinse well. Place the wok over a moderate heat just to dry, then wipe the surface clean with a pad of kitchen paper soaked in cooking oil. The wok is now seasoned and ready for use.
After each use, wash the wok under the hot or cold water tap. Never use detergents as they will remove the ‘seasoning’ and food will stick to the surface the next time you cook. Should any food be left sticking to the wok, scrape it off with a stiff brush or nylon scourer – don’t use soap. Rinse and dry the wok thoroughly over a low heat. If the wok is not to be used again soon, rub some oil over the surface to prevent it going rusty.
When you have cooked in a new wok some eight to ten times, and if you never clean it with detergents or metal abrasives, then it will acquire a beautiful, glossy finish like a well-seasoned omelette pan. This patina is much treasured by Chinese cooks as it creates the ‘wok flavour’.
